For several years now, winegrowing estates, such as Champagne Marguet in Ambonnay, have been rediscovering a companion that they had abandoned in the 1950s: the Ardennes draught horse. The horse’s stride allows better aeration of the soil, unlike tractors which compress it. The horse is trained to feel the roots with the tip of its hoof, which allows it not to tear them up. Its pace is steady, but if it slows down, it’s time to take a break. A horse needs to work at least 50 hours a month to keep his training.