Before 2010, the use of draught horses in the vineyards brought a smile to the face of many winemakers. The pursuit of yield, tractors, and sulphites prevailed. However, an increasing number of winemakers, like Benoît Marguet, approach their terroir in a different way, one that is closer to nature. Don’t tell him it’s folklore: “It's very modern, high-end work, the ‘haute couture’ of the vine,” he replies. Domaine Marguet has been certified biodynamic by Demeter for eight years. The quality and prestige of their champagne outweigh the quantity.