In the north of Troyes, the chalky Champagne, once said to be dirt poor, has become prosperous. Beyond the loops of the Seine river appear hills covered with vines. More than 40 winegrowers produce the famous champagne and Chardonnay in the region. The plain is also the second-largest granary in France. In terms of history, the Champagne region is home to the Templar site of Payns. It hosted the French kings Philip IV the Fair and Louis XIII, who built homes there.